LAPSE:2026.0349
Published Article

LAPSE:2026.0349
SMILE: Smell Maximisation In Low-cost Eau de parfum
June 12, 2026
Abstract
Despite the growing economic importance of the fragrance industry, perfume formulation remains largely guided by empirical knowledge and iterative trial-and-error approaches. The structured design of fragrances, typically organised into top, middle, and base notes through the blending of perfume raw materials, is therefore time-consuming, costly, and difficult to generalise. Existing computational approaches have begun to address this challenge, but are commonly limited to small ingredient sets or require extensive sensory data that are not always available. This work proposes a computer-aided optimisation framework for Eau de Parfum formulation that simultaneously maximises perceived olfactory intensity and minimises formulation cost. The resulting optimisation problem is formulated to preserve the structural balance of top, middle, and base notes inherent to the perfume pyramid. Application of the framework to a fruity-floral Eau de Parfum formulation demonstrates a substantial increase in perceived intensity alongside a reduction in total formulation cost of approximately 64%. The proposed approach is intended as a decision-support tool for perfumers, enabling rapid exploration of cost-intensity trade-offs once a candidate ingredient set has been defined. The framework offers a step towards more systematic, data-driven perfume engineering and provides a foundation for future extensions incorporating ingredient selection and sensory constraints.
Despite the growing economic importance of the fragrance industry, perfume formulation remains largely guided by empirical knowledge and iterative trial-and-error approaches. The structured design of fragrances, typically organised into top, middle, and base notes through the blending of perfume raw materials, is therefore time-consuming, costly, and difficult to generalise. Existing computational approaches have begun to address this challenge, but are commonly limited to small ingredient sets or require extensive sensory data that are not always available. This work proposes a computer-aided optimisation framework for Eau de Parfum formulation that simultaneously maximises perceived olfactory intensity and minimises formulation cost. The resulting optimisation problem is formulated to preserve the structural balance of top, middle, and base notes inherent to the perfume pyramid. Application of the framework to a fruity-floral Eau de Parfum formulation demonstrates a substantial increase in perceived intensity alongside a reduction in total formulation cost of approximately 64%. The proposed approach is intended as a decision-support tool for perfumers, enabling rapid exploration of cost-intensity trade-offs once a candidate ingredient set has been defined. The framework offers a step towards more systematic, data-driven perfume engineering and provides a foundation for future extensions incorporating ingredient selection and sensory constraints.
Record ID
Keywords
Formulation chemistry, Industry 4.0, Optimisation, Perfume engineering
Subject
Suggested Citation
Esposito F, Caprio UD, Collu M, Graziano R, Guida V, Sildir H, Nogueira IB, Vermeire F, Leblebici ME. SMILE: Smell Maximisation In Low-cost Eau de parfum. Systems and Control Transactions 5:1160-1166 (2026) https://doi.org/10.69997/sct.124802
Author Affiliations
Esposito F: Process Engineering for Sustainable Systems, Department of Chemical Engineering, KU Leuven, Agoralaan Building B, 3590 Diepenbeek, Belgium [ORCID]
Caprio UD: Process Engineering for Sustainable Systems, Department of Chemical Engineering, KU Leuven, Agoralaan Building B, 3590 Diepenbeek, Belgium [ORCID]
Collu M: Procter & Gamble, Brussels Innovation Center, Strombeek-Bever, Belgium [ORCID]
Graziano R: Procter & Gamble, Brussels Innovation Center, Strombeek-Bever, Belgium [ORCID]
Guida V: Procter & Gamble, Brussels Innovation Center, Strombeek-Bever, Belgium [ORCID]
Sildir H: Department of Chemical Engineering, Izmir Institute of Technology, Izmir 35430, Türkiye [ORCID]
Nogueira IB: Chemical Engineering Department, Norwegian University of Science and Technology, Sem Sælandsvei 4, Kjemiblokk 5, Trondheim 793101, Norway [ORCID]
Vermeire F: KU Leuven, Department of Chemical Engineering, Celestijnenlaan 200F-bus 2424, Leuven 3001, Belgium [ORCID]
Leblebici ME: Process Engineering for Sustainable Systems, Department of Chemical Engineering, KU Leuven, Agoralaan Building B, 3590 Diepenbeek, Belgium [ORCID]
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Caprio UD: Process Engineering for Sustainable Systems, Department of Chemical Engineering, KU Leuven, Agoralaan Building B, 3590 Diepenbeek, Belgium [ORCID]
Collu M: Procter & Gamble, Brussels Innovation Center, Strombeek-Bever, Belgium [ORCID]
Graziano R: Procter & Gamble, Brussels Innovation Center, Strombeek-Bever, Belgium [ORCID]
Guida V: Procter & Gamble, Brussels Innovation Center, Strombeek-Bever, Belgium [ORCID]
Sildir H: Department of Chemical Engineering, Izmir Institute of Technology, Izmir 35430, Türkiye [ORCID]
Nogueira IB: Chemical Engineering Department, Norwegian University of Science and Technology, Sem Sælandsvei 4, Kjemiblokk 5, Trondheim 793101, Norway [ORCID]
Vermeire F: KU Leuven, Department of Chemical Engineering, Celestijnenlaan 200F-bus 2424, Leuven 3001, Belgium [ORCID]
Leblebici ME: Process Engineering for Sustainable Systems, Department of Chemical Engineering, KU Leuven, Agoralaan Building B, 3590 Diepenbeek, Belgium [ORCID]
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Journal Name
Systems and Control Transactions
Volume
5
First Page
1160
Last Page
1166
Year
2026
Publication Date
2026-06-12
Version Comments
Original Submission
Other Meta
PII: 1160-1166-276-SCT-5-2026, Publication Type: Journal Article
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LAPSE:2026.0349
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https://doi.org/10.69997/sct.124802
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[v1] (Original Submission)
Jun 12, 2026
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References Cited
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